Saturday, October 17, 2026

Sailing Across Indian Ocean Without Leaving My Desk

Prologue

I didn’t sail across the Indian Ocean. I followed a sailing voyage across it.

It all began over dinner with friends, where I met a friend of a friend—an outdoor enthusiast I’ll call OE. We had a great conversation. Before we parted, he told us that, in just two days, he would set sail across the Indian Ocean with four other sailors. He offered to let us track the boat’s progress through Garmin MapShare. I signed up!

The Voyage

The plan was to sail from Bali, Indonesia, to Mauritius, with one stop ashore at the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Mauritius lies in the Indian Ocean, east of Madagascar and about 1,100 nautical miles off the southeastern coast of Africa. The crew expected to cover roughly 3,600 nautical miles in 31 days.

In the end, they sailed 3,488.5 nautical miles in 24 days, including a three-day stop at Cocos.

Each day, OE shared the boat’s position and track through Garmin MapShare, along with photos and brief updates. The boat also had Starlink, so the crew could stay connected while far out at sea.

From Bali to Mauritius

What I Was Curious About

I’m not even keen on kayaking in open water for more than a few hours. Sailing across the Indian Ocean for nearly a month is certainly not an adventure I would choose for myself.

But I was curious. What would OE and his crewmates see and experience? How would they cope with loneliness and boredom—five people confined to a small space, doing much the same things day after day, surrounded by seemingly endless water?

I even did a little reading to understand what a month-long journey across the open ocean might be like. One idea I came across was that, even when people can stay in touch with family and friends, the unchanging horizon and lack of new sights can become psychologically challenging.

I wondered how much of that OE’s crew would experience.

OE's Voyage 

This account is based on the photographs and short comments OE shared by email with those of us following his “Sailing Across the Indian Ocean” adventure.

The first week: Excitement and discovery

The boat left Bali in the late afternoon of September 10, 2026, at around six o’clock in the afternoon. The first day went smoothly, and the crew soon sailed into the sunset.

ready to depart for the voyage at Bali


sailing towards west

OE didn’t write much about how he felt, but his photos offered clues. In one, he was still awake at two in the morning, wearing a red headlamp. In another, he was on deck the following afternoon, scanning the sea through a telescope. By the third day, though, he had gone to bed as early as eight o’clock. Perhaps the excitement was already giving way to the demands of life aboard a boat.

early sleep (8pm)  on the 3rd night

The fifth night seemed ideal for stargazing. The sky was clear, and the crew stayed up late to watch the stars. Two photos were timestamped 2:59 a.m. and 3:00 a.m. OE also finally found some time that evening to work on his laptop.

Star Gazing in the middle of Indian Ocean 1

Star Gazing in the middle of Indian Ocean 2



By day six, food had become a recurring subject in his updates. OE sent a photo of his breakfast, and over the course of the voyage he shared about a dozen photos of meals. Cooking seemed to be one of the boat’s main activities, and there was a pleasing variety of dishes. That morning, the crew also tried fishing from the stern. OE didn’t say whether they caught anything.

Scrambled eggs, tomatoes and meat for day 6 breakfast

Fishing in the morning, 7am, at the stern 

Day seven brought a chance to get into the water. Under a blue sky dotted with white clouds, the crew swam in the ocean and dived from the deck. From the photos, it looked like a wonderful day.


Diving from the sail boat

Cocos: A welcome break on land

On September 17, the boat reached the Cocos (Keeling) Islands, its first and only stop ashore. The passage from Bali had taken seven days and two hours, covering 1,136 nautical miles.

The crew celebrated the completion of the first leg with a big meal aboard and champagne.

They apparently continued to sleep on the boat, but went ashore to look around and make use of the island’s facilities—to shop, do laundry, and, most importantly, enjoy a proper shower and shave. One photo carried OE’s caption: “First ‘real’ Shower and Shave” in seven days.

I could imagine how good that shower must have felt.

They left Cocos at six o’clock on the morning of September 20. Around half past six, the sun emerged from behind heavy clouds.

an inflatable boat to go to the Cocos island

celebrating completion the 1st stage of the voyage 





Sunrise on the start of the second part of the voyage - Cocos to Ma


The second leg: When the days begin to blur

After leaving Cocos, the routine began to repeat itself: the vast ocean, sunrise behind them, sunset ahead, and occasional swims. The initial excitement seemed to fade, and boredom began to creep in. Even the consistently dry weather, which might sound like a blessing, had become monotonous. A change in the weather would at least have offered something different to look at.

Then, on day 18—the seventh day of the second leg—something unexpected happened. Flying fish and flying squid came hurtling toward the boat. One squid actually hit OE on the head!

It sounded like a scene from a movie. Experiencing it in person must have been both startling and thrilling.

squids flew into the sail boat

flying fishes fell onboard

On day 19, I noticed from a couple of photos that it had finally rained. I wrote to OE: “Finally, there was rain!”

His reply was memorable:

“Ha, when it rains it pours. 😳 Also, our autopilot is having electrical issues, so lots of hand steering. Thanks for checking in Allan. It has been surprisingly lonely out here, and every single note helps.”

I was struck by his admission: *“It has been surprisingly lonely out here.”*

I had expected the crew to face boredom. After all, the same five people were sharing a small space, surrounded by little more than sea and sky, for weeks on end. They had activities to break up the day—swimming, fishing, cooking, and stargazing—and Starlink allowed them to communicate with family and friends. Yet none of these could fully dispel the loneliness.

Perhaps that was what surprised me most. Being connected is not the same as feeling connected. A message from someone on shore might have meant more to OE than I had imagined. His words made me realize that even a remarkable adventure can have long, quiet stretches when a simple note from home—or from a bystander following along—makes a difference.

Land at last

Fortunately, the wind was behind them, and the crew was running about a week ahead of schedule. As they approached Mauritius, large ships began to appear. Then, at last, land came into view.

The boat arrived near Mauritius at around nine o’clock on the evening of 24th day. They could not enter the harbour after dark, so they had to anchor about a mile from the port and wait.

The ocean crossing was essentially over: 24 days and roughly 3,500 nautical miles behind them.






OE’s final message was long and full of emotion. He described reaching his hotel the following afternoon:

 “At about 1:30 PM, I finally walked the roughly 150 feet from the boat to my hotel, checked in, took a very welcome shower, and officially returned to life on land.

After weeks aboard Quetzal, that very short walk felt like the end of a very long journey.”

The date was a special date for another reason. It marked exactly 30 years since OE and his wife had gone on their first date.

He ended with a thought that stayed with me:

“The greatest adventure of my life has never been this sailing trip. It has been the life my wife and I have built together over these past 30 years.”

After weeks of crossing an immense ocean, it was a moving reminder that the greatest adventures are not always the most dramatic ones. Some are built quietly, day by day, with another person.


Mauritius

Epilogue

Following OE’s voyage turned out to be an adventure of its own. I read every email, downloaded all the 200+ photos he sent, and saved them in a folder. I had planned to write this bystander’s journal once he completed the crossing, and now, at last, I have done so.

As with the journals I write after my own trips, putting this account together took me through the journey once more. Looking back at the photos and messages, I noticed details I might otherwise have missed. I shared a little of the crew’s excitement, imagined the monotony of those endless days at sea, and felt the significance of that simple message about loneliness.

I never set foot on the boat, and I crossed none of those 3,488.5 nautical miles myself. Yet by following the voyage, I experienced a small part of it.

Sometimes, being a bystander is enough to take you on a journey.