Saturday, July 26, 2025

Peak to Peak Hike at Pilatus

Pilatus, also known as Mount Pilatus, is a mountain massif overlooking Lucerne in Central Switzerland. It is composed of several peaks. There are 3 peaks right next to the namesake Pilatus Kulm (2073m): Mount Esel, next to Pilatus Kulm, 27 meters taller, and 300 meter hiking distance to the top, the highest peak in the massif, Tomlishorn (2,128.5 m), about 1.5 km away from a cliff side, mostly gently modulated trail, Mt Matthorn (2040 m), about 2 km away via a trail which goes down to the valley between Pilatus and Matthorn (~ 200m elevation drop), then goes up ~ 170m to reach the summit of Matthorn.

Pilatus viewed from Lucerne during our day 1 there

It was a cloudy day on our second day at Lucerne Switzerland when we hiked at Pilatus. 

We took a train from Lucerne to the foot of Pilatus at Alpnachstad in early morning,  where the Pilatus trailhead and cogwheel train station are. Instead of hiking from Alpnachastad, we took the a cogwheel train to Pilatus Kulm and hiked between the peaks from there.

Cogwheel train ride

The cogwheel railway here is the steepest in the world with largest slope at 48%! The cogwheel train, with chains beneath it, climbs the mountain from Alpnachstad to Pilatus Kulm, past blooming alpine meadows and striking rock formations. On one point, our train stopped on a sidetrack to allow a maintenance train going downhill. Seeing the rail tracks switch position real time was exciting.










When we got to Pilatus Kulm, it was very cloudy we could barely see anything 20 meters away. We hiked on the dragon path behind the train station, which is a trail by the cliffside around the peak. It was very windy and cold up there I had to put on a raincoat as a windbreaker to keep myself warm. We were not prepared for this - we did not bring our light climbing coats, which we used during our TMB trek, with us for this hike - we did bring them for the trip but left them in hotel.



put on raincoat as a windbreaker

Hiking to Matthorn

We stayed at the visitor center for a while. Seeing that clouds started to break up from time to time, revealing the beautiful mountains and valleys in front of us, just a few seconds, we decided to take our chance to hike the longest peak to peak hike from Pilatus Kulm to Matthorn (2km point to point).

The trailhead is right beneath the visitor center at Pilatus Kulm. As we walked down the zigzagged  trail  into the valley between Pilatus and Matthorn, clouds came and went, and one cogwheel was climbing the last section of the steep rail, some passengers waved to us, and we waved back, a few minutes later, another cogwheel appeared.

The descend is pretty steep, with 5 switchbacks on the slope of Pilatus.

The views were very good as we started to ascend to the summit of Matthorn. Matthorn emerged from the cloud, the beautiful valley perpendicular to the trail appeared. 

hiking to Matthorn

a cogwheel climbed uo

beautiful valley appeared momentarily

The 5 switchbacks on Pilatus to Matthorn trail - looking back from the ascending trail to Matthorn

Matthorn emerged as cloud moved away


Quickly we approached the steepest section of the trail, at about 1.5km on the trail around 1950m elevation. I stopped taking photos, and focused on the hike 100%. With the aid of steel ropes by the trail side, I successfully passed this section. The approaching of the summit was almost anticlimax because the rest of the trail to the summit was actually easy!

on the narrow, steep section of the trail

I got through the most dangerous portion of the trail using the steel rope by the trail side

The rest of the trail is easy!

The view was spectacular:  The Pilatus Kulm, The Mt Esel, were prominently present across the valley, the cliff side rock formation is exotic, and cloud flew under our feet when we summitted! We rested by the Cross, drinking water, having snack, and watching the everchanging scenery in the river of clouds.

I recorded the descend from the summit for a little bit over a minute.  Tomlishorn was clearly visible cross the valley, in fact we saw people walking around at its summit. At the top of the steepest section of the trail, I took a few photos of Lily descending, and she video-recorded part of my effort there from below. As we got to the valley between Matthorn and Pilatus Kulm, the cloud cleared beneath us, we saw Lake Lucerne and Alpnachersee (Alpnacher lake).

We completed the 4km Pilatus to Matthorn in 2.5 hours, with lucky breaks from the weather and enjoyed the hike and the vista.

Mt Esel in the center, the cliff side trail to Tomlishorn in the upper side of the cliff

green mountain, white cloud and exotic rock formation 

Lily reached the summit a few minutes ahead of me

    
Flowing cloud under our feet at the summit of Matthorn


Descent from Matthorn summit with a view of Tomlishorn

Ecstatic at the summit of Matthorn 

trekking at cliff side 

hold-on to the steel rope on the rough cliff side trail

Lake Lucerne (far) and Alpnacher See (close)

Mt Esel (left) and Mt Matthorn (right)

Mt Esel and Mt Tomlishorn

From Pilatus Kulm, Mt Esel is a small hill, we climbed it without rest after Pilatus to Matthorn. The most interesting thing on this climb was to see two Ibx resting on the cliff.

After a late lunch, we went for Tomlishorn. The clouds were getting dense, halfway to the summit, it started to rain without visibility beyond 3 meters, we called it quit, and returned to Lucerne via the cogwheel and train.

cloud cleared for aa short moment , and the mountain across a valley by Esel appeared, two ibx were resting on the cliff side 




The trail to Tomlishorn

the intermediate peak before the summit, about halfway 


Tomlishorn is the peak at the back of the photo, we got to the intermediate peak and returned due rain and no visibility 

completed Pilatus to Matthorn, and Pilatus to Esel, but did not complete Pilatus to Tomlishorn due to rain and low visibility