Sunday, September 15, 2024

Food, Culture and Team Fun on TMB - by Lily

 6 French men, 2 Canadian ladies, 3 old couples (us), and a young, charming French belle as our guide, that’s the 15 in our group of TMB hikers. For us, this is the first time to take such a long, strenuous, multi-day hike with a group of unknown foreigners and in mostly remote areas with simple lodging conditions. Did we think it through before signing up? Perhaps not. But all the unknown factors are also part of the surprise, discovery and enjoyment. We not only survived the hike but also learned a lot and enjoyed most of the trip.

Teamwork

From day 1 it was obvious that most of the other people are much stronger hikers than us three old couples. We were constantly at the tail of the group, going up or down. Over time, some interesting personalities started to show as well. Some of us began to feel the stress of being slow and started to worry. But in reality, there’s not much we could do about it; besides, being able to safely complete the hike everyday is more important than speed. Luckily most of our teammates understood that. Sometimes, our guide Chloe would stay with us at the end to make sure we walk through some treacherous pass safely. Other times, a couple of other strong guys would be with us at the back, chatting with us a bit and taking pictures. I half-jokingly said that our slow pace allowed them to slow down and enjoy the scenery more 😊 

During the first week, they helped carry most of the shared lunch up to the mountain, including two heavy thermoses so we could have hot water for tea or coffee after lunch. Later on, they would offer to carry Allan’s backpack when he had trouble with his knees.  We reciprocated the kindness by doing little things we could as well, helping here and there, taking pictures for others, and by admitting our limits and willingly skipped a couple of days when the road condition was difficult so that the rest of the group would be able to enjoy their hike without worrying about us. By the time we completed the full circle of hiking, it was quite a joyous moment for all of us! We took a team picture at the TMB gate and celebrated our achievement with a drink. A tes souhaits !





Chloe carried Allan's backpack in one stretch

Mission Accomplished

Food

The morning of our first day hike, we happened to pass by a local farmer’s market at Chamonix. I saw loaves of hard bread (le pain), big chunk of cheese (fromage), sausages, and fruit and vegetables. This pretty much sums up European food culture in the Alps region. 

Le Pain

fromage (Cheese)

sausage and hams

fruit

During our hiking trip, we got at least 1 fruit every day, some salad made out of beans, peas and tomatoes (prepared by our guide Chloe after each long day of walk while we took rest at our corners), and bread and cheese and sausages. The Europeans love cheese, while we not so much, until we had raclette for dinner one day. We stayed in a Swiss village at Trient. At dinner, we saw three hot plates were set up on the long table. Our teammates explained to us that we would have the historical Swiss meal, raclette. The servers brought in trays of cooked finger potatoes and set them on top of the hot plate to keep warm. Then they brought in plates of ham slices and raclette cheese. We each had a metal tray to put the cheese chunk in, then we put the tray under the hot plate to let the cheese melt. On our dinner plate, we cut open the potatoes, added a slice of ham on top, then a few slices of pickles. When the cheese became bubbly, we poured it over the food on our dinner plate and began trying it out. It was delicious! We each tried a few rounds; the food filled us up nicely. Importantly, grilled cheese seemed to cause less stomach issues. Everyone was satisfied 😊 During our hike, we passed through diary ranches and walked side by side with the cows! Chloe explained to us that the two species of cows on that ranch were the only two certified to make French tomme cheese.

 

Swiss historical food - Raclette



Getting to know each other

Our team was divided into francophones and English-speaking group. Some of the French people and the Canadians speak some English, but most of us understood no French words. Despite the language barrier, we started to get to know each other. I made an effort to learn everyone’s name, then their professions and hobbies. The professions of the group are diversified, several engineers, a lawyer, an accountant, a banker, a small-business owner, a salesperson, a government employee, and a retiree.  In our group, there were a few marathon runners, a guy who climbed the peak of Mont-Blanc, a soccer player, a 100 km trail runner, no wonder this hike was a piece of cake for them :). 


Taking a break at a glacier river for a foot/knee therapy

During our last drink together, I asked everyone what their next adventure would be. Chloe would be training for paragliding competition and eventually get certified to be a paragliding instructor in a couple of years. How exciting! I told her I would sign up for her class when she is ready 😊

At the end, we hugged each other and bid our goodbyes. I’m sure all of us would bring home wonderful memories, interesting stories, and a desire to do this kind of tour again!




Friday, September 13, 2024

Geneva Excursion

Geneva is the second Switzerland city I visited. The first city I visited was Zürich during a long layover there. Geneva is similar to Zurich in many ways - it is situated by a lake, Lake Geneva, it has two rivers running through the city, it is an old city with many churches and statues. Despite being most famous cities in Switzerland, neither is the capital of the country, which is Bern.

Geneva is located at southwestern end of Lake Geneva, close to the border with France. It is a global city, a financial center, and a worldwide center for diplomacy due to the presence of numerous international organizations, including the headquarters of many agencies of the United Nations and the Red Cross. It is the second most populous city in Swiss, after Zurich.

We arrived at Geneva two nights before our TMB - Tour du Mont Blanc. We  toured a small portion of the city around the tip of lake Geneva at its southwestern end.

Sunrise Concert by the Lake

On the way walking to Place de jeux des Bains des Pâquis, where the concert was held, we passed the Brunswick Monument, a Neo-Gothic monument in honor of 19th-century duke. It was so quiet in the morning, we expected to hear the music from the concert as we got close, but we didn't. We wondered if there was no concert on this day. There was. 

When we got there, the concert was in progress already, and the Sun was yet to rise above the hill in the eastern horizon. A small band, with two singers and two instrument players, was playing already. The music was played softly, the singers sung gently and the audience was quiet, even the applauses were muted.

They sung in a non-English language, likely French, I stood by for a while, then walked toward the tip of the tiny peninsular to enjoy the vista and water fowls, and watch people climbing a rock wall in the water. 

While enjoying the sound and sights, I noticed that the water in the lake was flowing. There must be an lake exit nearby, there is. It is Rhone river.

Brunswick Monument




a pier served as a overflow seating area


A Sunrise concert by Lake Geneva

A lighthouse under the morning Sun

A Rock climbing wall in the water

The Geneva Fountain

The Geneva water fountain is across the lake from Bains des Pâquis. The fountain, a waterjet pumped Skywise, 140 meters high, an iconic sight of Geneva, and marvelous on a sunny clear day and night. We only saw its grandeur during day time.

Note it is only on at specific time depending on seasons. It is from 9am to 11:15pm during the time we visited.

View of Geneva Water Fountain from west shore

Later we took a water taxi from west shore to where the fountain is on the east shore, and looked at it up close to appreciate its magnitude and the rainbow. The fountain shoots up so high, and there is no very tall buildings around, one could see the fountain from many places at Geneva.



a rainbow

Geneva fountain is partially blocked by buildings when viewed from St Pierre Cathedral 


Geneva Fountain from River Rhone

Other landmarks at Geneva

A major land mark is St Pierre Cathedral, most famous as the adopted home church of Protestant Reformation leader John Calvin. There are also many sculptures spread around the city. The reformation wall is a stone wall monument that honors the protestant reformation and its founders. 
The hyped flower clock is a sidewalk garden with a clock in it.

The broken chair in front of the UN headquarters is "a symbol of both fragility and strength, precariousness and stability, brutality and dignity", it is an "ongoing symbol of the desperate cry of war torn civilian populations" originally conceived by handicap International. We also visited red cross international HQs.

St Pierre Cathedral


The last Supper
The reformation wall - This stone wall monument honors the Protestant Reformation & its founders, including John Calvin.










The flower clock

broken chair 

Red Cross HQ


Water fowls at Lake Geneva

The common water fowls at Lake Geneva and River Rhone include Eurasian Coots, Swans, Great Crested Grebes. We saw grebes before but it was the first time we saw a family of grebes - both parents and a baby grebe!

Rhone river, the exit of water at Lake Geneva, is packed with buildings


Swans and Coots

a great crested grebe family by the Geneva Fountain



Eurasian Coots resting on the shore of River Rhone


Swans and Coots on River Rhone

Two juvenile Swans 

Swan and Great Crested Grebe

Geneva is a beautiful, quiet city with free public transportations for everyone, including tourists at its downtown area.




Saturday, September 7, 2024

Tour du Mont Blanc - The trip itinerary

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the most popular long-distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc massif, covering a distance of roughly 165 kilometers (103 mi) with 10 kilometers (6.2 mi) of ascent/descent and passing through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France. Mt Blanc, or Mt Bianco (Italian) is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising 4,809 m above sea level, located on the border of France and Italy.

Our Trail - clockwise - blue circles were our stops

We hiked on TMB from August 17 to 25 with Altitude Montblanc for a 9 day guided hike - in clockwise direction (blue arrows in above Figure). The hiking group had 15 person including the guide, 6 women, 9 men, from 3 countries (US, France, Canada), two common languages - English and French.

What an adventure it was! 

In 9 days, we hiked 160 km, with 8500 m elevation gain, walked on the lands of three countries - Switzerland,  France and Italy. Mountains, glaciers, valleys, water falls, meadows, sheep, cows, marmots, and hawks ...despite reaching my physical capability limit, I thoroughly enjoyed hiking  on TMB.

The "immersion" with our French speaking new friends, the local foods, the comradeship formed in the group made our TMB much more than an outdoor adventure, it was an experience of life time.

The following is our realized itinerary.

August 15 - arrived at Geneva in the evening, stayed in hotel at downtown, near Lake Geneva

Preparation for TMB - bought water and snacks.

August 16 - toured a small portion of Geneva in the morning, went to Chamonix in the afternoon 

Sunrise concert by Lake Geneva at  Place de jeux des Bains des Pâquis

Sunrise concert by Lake Geneva

Brunswick monument, the flower clock, Geneva fountain (shooting up 140m),  St Pierre Cathedral, Rhone river...
Geneva Fountain

Took bus to Chamonix in the afternoon - a beautiful French resort town with many resturants, also the starting point of TMB.

Stayed in a hotel near the center of the Chamonix - Croix Blanche

August 17,  TMB day 1....raining in the morning 

Hiking in the clouds, barely could see anything. On a clear day Mt Blanc would be right in front of us by the trail near Lac Blanc, reflected in Lac Blanc. The rain stopped near the end day 1, beautiful mountains, blue glaciers appeared!

14km, 600m up, 1000m down, portion of the trail very steep

stayed at Chalet Alpin du Tour which is right in front of a glacier, bunker beds, 5 person a room, dinner and next day breakfast at onsite restaurant

at our TMB starting point

blue glacier across the valley

August 18,  TMB day 2.....raining...until 2pm

It was dry when we started initial steep climb. When we reached high point for the day, it was raining and windy, we had to delay lunch break and hiked forward to an underground shelter. The beautiful Swiss village Trient was our lodging location.

14km, 800m up, 1000m down




stayed at Trient - La Grande Ourse. Our hotel room was spacious with beautiful views from two windows. It has an attached bar, and also a restaurant.



August 19,  TMB day 3.....cloudy to Sunny in the afternoon

Because of the rains in the previous two days, the air was fresh, the sky was clear blue and the grasses and trees were greener. 

18km, 1000m up, 800m down. The downhill trail was steep with loose rocks - it hurt my knees a lot, and I was very slow. 


my hiking guide Chloe did double duty during portion of the downhill

on the way to lodging 



stayed at Relais d'Arpelle, we were lucky to get a regular hotel room with toilet, shower, and a balcony facing the valley.

August 20,  TMB day 4.....Gorgeous day

A beautiful day with relative easy but long  hike in the valley, and splendid scenery. 

I got up early to enjoy the views of golden glaciered rocky mountains during the Sunrise.  At the end of the day we also soaked our feet and  knees in freezing glacier river!

20km, 400m down, 600m up.

isn't it gorgeous!

Champex Lac - a natural glacier lake

Mountain peaks by the valley

last climb to La Fouly


The glacier facing the hotel - Maya Joie

cold therapy of feet and knees in the glacier river

stayed at Maya Joie, double occupancy rooms, gorgeous surroundings, but there were bed-bugs in some rooms. 

August 21,  TMB day 5.....Beautiful day

The main landmark this day was Mt Dolent. Mt Dolent is at the intersection of France, Italy and Swiss. there are several glaciers around the mountain peak.

18+km, 950m up, 950m down

I was in the front of the group because I started early from a break

black and white sheep on the slope - side view of Mt Dolent

Mt Dolent

stayed at hotel restaurant Lavachey in Italy... two twin beds for double occupancy. We had the best dinner on the trail... we had real meat - half chicken breast - for the first time on the trail, for entree.

August 22,  TMB day 6.....Sunny day

Another beautiful sunny day. We were now at the south/southwest to Mt Blanc. Mont Blanc was the main attraction on this portion of the trail, along with a few high peaks around it.

In fact we saw Moon set over Mt Blanc when we stepped out of Hotel Lavachey in the morning.

14km, 1000m up, 800m down

Moon set over Mt Blanc - the glaciered mount, which is 14 km away 




Lily did double duty on this day

clouds come and go - making a constant changing view of Mt Blanc

stayed at Rifugio Monte Bianco (= Mont Blanc), bunker beds for double occupancy, which is located at the foot of Mt Blanco, across a valley. 

August 23,  TMB day 7.....Sunny day

I skipped the first mountain on the section of TMB trail per the suggestion of the guide to allow my hurting knees rest a bit, and took a easier walk around, but joined the main group the rest of the way. The second mountain pass on the trail actually has higher elevation gain.

hiking along a glacier river instead of climbing mountain

stream 

A herd of sheep - the shepherd and his dog were sitting nearby 

The valley west to Mont Blanc

stayed at Refuge des Mottets, we stayed at double occupancy rooms. Those who selected single occupancy shared a wide bed with many people in dormitories.

Goats near the Refuge

shared wide beds

August 24,  TMB day 8.....Sunny day

This section of the trail is the steepest, and has long steep ascend and descend. Due to potential afternoon storm, some of us were advised to skip the section, and take a detour by the transportation vehicle. Those on the regular trail, climbed mountain with a herd of cows, and witnessed a helicopter emergency rescue, as well as a hang glider taking off.

18.5km, 1450m up, 1300m down.

steep ascend

hiking with cows


emergency rescue of an injured hiker

going downhill with no obvious trail
 


Roselend 


 

Left figure - detour by vehicle, right - regular hiking in miles

stayed at Hotel La Gelinotte at Les Containines-montjoie. Nice garden hotel. Last super of our TMB.


view of Aiguille de Bionnassay from our room - which blocks Mont Blanc

August 25,  TMB day 9.....Rain to Cloudy

The last day on TMB started with the sound of glacier rivers and rains. The rain stopped when we started hiking! It was a relatively easy hike, we finished hiking at 4pm, at Le Houches.

20km, 800m up, 800m down.

Mission Accomplished

We celebrated the completion of TMB at the ceremonial starting gate at Les Houches with group pictures and a group drink before parting our ways...


This was our first multi-day trekking, and the first time we traveled and vacationed with people outside our circles of friends, we enjoyed the trip very much! the mountains, glaciers, meadows, valleys, sheep, cows, and the company of our French speaking new friends. Thanks to our guide, Chloe for her patience, guide, encouragement and coordination, so we had a great time on TMB.



Note: The last paragraph was approximately a few words I said before giving Chloe - our guide, the appreciation card, and gratuity from the US hikers at the drinking party.





last stretch to the finishing line

Mission Accomplished